Thunder Tiger Raptor 30

TT Raptor Supplemental Assembly Manual - Ver 2.1 - 23 August 2000

For a complete review goto RCOnline.com.
Legal BS:
Author and Contributors are not resposible for anything.

Warnings - Cautions - Tips

1. The Tank may leak around the black rubber seal. Inspect and seal with silicone if necessary.
2. There was a patch of clutches with metalurgical and machining flaws. The clutch shoes break and the head will spin while the engine idles.
3. The clutch shoe to liner gap is excessive on some prebuild models. It should be 0.25mm (I think) on each side or a businesscard thickness wide.
4. The clutch has a design flaw. See Section 9 for a fix.
5. ACE will send out a free idle needle for the TT36 if you have a kit with the early model carb. You can't tell the difference with the nacked eye so get one if your kit was made before Sep 1999.
6. The fuel tank may rub on the back bottom of the frames. Look for chafing marks and insert tape and/or relief the frame members.
7. Ensure the new reinforced tail pitch control arm (20) is installed as the early model may break
8. Loctite the two long setscrews into the tailrotor hub. The setscrews align in the two filled holes on the tail rotor shaft
9. Ensure the two boom support to main frame screws do not penetrate into the fueltank sidewall. Add a washer or cut off the tip of each screw.
10. Do not use the built in Pitch gage for initial setup as it's accuracy depends on correct linkage length. Buy a pitch gage, you will need it again.
11. If you are using an aftermarket ARK muffler, DO NOT add an exhaust extension to it. (See the Raptor pics on what not to to). The metal pipe sticking out the back is unsupported for the last four inches and has holes drilled into it. It will break off 1/4 in from the metal part of the muffler.

Read this before flying the ARF version of the Raptor!

1. If the links are too tight on the balls gently squeeze the link on the ball with needlenose pliers.
2. Lube the swashplate with teflon oil. Lube the mainshaft lightly with teflon oil
3. Check and lube all bearings with teflon oil if required
4. Turn the landing skid braces around for better ground handling
5. Clean and loctite the carb control lever. Caution, do not overtighten nut as the carb barrel threads may strip.
6. Check that the long bolt holding the muffler (5) together is tight. Rotate exhaust outlet so exhaust gasses clear the skit and frames.
7. Steps 16 and subsequent apply to the ARF version.
8. Here is a Diagram to set up the linkages for 3d. Courtesy of ACE.

Special Engine Section

1. ACE has a new idle needle available for free. Contact them, it improves the carburator measurably.
2. Install the optional brass headshim. Retighten all bolts on engine
3. Install a cooling shroud extension to deflect air over the entire cooling fins of the cylinder head.
4. Remove the carb and unscrew the main needle valve. Clean the passages and remainder of carb with alcohol to remove contaminants. Reassemble.
5. Ensure the carb is fully seated on the engine. The O ring must be compressed.
6. Loctite the carb retaining nut.
7. The main needle valve leaks. Remove the metal clip that prevents the needle valve from rotating. Slip a 1/2 in long piece of fuel tubing over the carb receptable and the needle valve.
8. Use a Enya#3 or OS#8 plug.
9. Using 15% fuel, turn out the main needle valve 2.5 turns from fully closed. Do not adjust the idle mixture until the high end is satisfactory.
10. The factory muffler has no internal baffles and provides minimal pressure to the fuel tank. Open the muffler by unscrewing the long bolt. Take a 3/4 in diameter washer and install it with two 3 mm lock nuts on the long bolt aft of the pressure fitting. Reassemble muffler. Lean the main needle about 1/2 turn to compensate for the additional pressure.
11. Check to make sure the main fuel tank leaks only a small amount.
12. If all else fails sell the TT and buy an OS32SXH.

Step 1 - Fuel Tank Assembly

• The interior fuel line in the prebuild tank is very flimsy. I used one of the external lines for the inside clunk.
• UNIFLOW tank setup is optional but several reports of engines leaning as the tank goes empty suggest it as a good idea.
• Use MinAir fuel tank fittings or drill a hole slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the fuel line next to the fuel tank seal and then simply slip the line through the hole. It is selfsealing but goop will prevent accidental movement of the line.
• Clean out the tank of contaminants.
• Seal the tank (and uniflow line) with sealant to prevent leaks.
  

  Step 2 - Clutch Bell Assembly

• The bearing (2) is not easy to seat into the clutch bell (3). Use a socket equal to the outside diameter of the bearing, set the clutch bell on soft wood and use a hammer to carefully pound the bearing in.
• Alternatively a C clamp and two wood pieces may also be used. To make this easier heat the clutch bell in an oven for 5 minutes and cool the bearing in the freezer.
• In kits manufactured after 1999 the bearing is already installed.
• For the Top bearing (1) set the bearing on wood with a hole sized to accommodate the pinion gear (4) and gently hammer the pinion into the bearing. Use loctite.
• Degrease the Pinion Gear (4) and the inside threads of the clutch bell (3) before loctiting them together.
• NOTE: Complete Step 9 prior to gluing liner into bell.
• Sand and clean the inside of the clutch bell (4) before gluing in the liner (5). Run ONE strip of electrical tape around the clutch (see step 9), install the Startshaft (see step 3) and slide the clutch bell over the clutch to press the liner in place as the glue cures.
• Use either JB Weld, CA or Epoxy to glue the liner in place. Sand the liner joint after the glue sets.
• The liner is on the thin side (or the clutch bell is too thick) so the gap between the clutch shoes and the liner may be too big causing the clutch shoes to fatigue and break off. A Kyosho Concept 60 clutch liner is a bit thicker and is a very good substitute. The gap should be the thickness of business card paper.
  

  Step 3 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 1

• A electrical screwdriver is handy to screw in all the phillips head screws (1) but DO NOT overtorque the screws.
• Clean and loctite pins (7) into the guide pulley bearings (11)
• Check and lube the bearings with teflon oil if required.
• Use a tiny amount of thin CA to fix the bearings (2, 3) into the holders.
• Clean and loctite the start shaft (13) into the clutch bell bearing and top start shaft bearing (2).
• Temporarily screw in the engine assemby from step 9 to align the start shaft bearings (2), start shaft and the start adapter (14).
• Clean and loctite the setscrews (6) into the start adaptor (14). Ensure the setscrews (6) engage the machined flats on the start shaft (13).
• The fuel tank may rub on the back of the frames. Look for chafing marks and insert tape and/or relief the frame members.
• The servo frame (8) and fuel tank can be installed last for easier handling.
  

  Step 4 - Main Drive Gear Assembly

• Clean screws (1) before using loctite
• Tighten screws (1) evenly to prevent deforming the plastic gears (4, 5)
• Use thin teflon oil and lube the one-way bearing inside the housing (6)
• The snaprings are very hard to put on the clutch shaft (6) and may break. Consider using snapring pliers for this task.
• Replacement snap rings are available at auto parts stores. 5/8in external type.
• Ensure the clutch shaft (6) turns freely after installing the snap rings. Lube with teflon oil. Balance assy after all parts are put together
  

  Step 5 - Washout Assembly

• Ensure washout base (9) is tabered side down for proper installation of control levers (7).
• For more cyclic control, install the balls (6, 1) into the outer holes of the control levers (7).
• Use CA to fix screws (2) in to hub
• Use CA to fix screws (1) into arms, flanged side of linkage balls (6) goes toward levers (7)
• Loctite screws (2) and spacers (4) to bearings
• Levers (7) and arms (8) should move freely without binding
  

  Step 6 - Main frame Assembly - Part 2

• The assy picture is a big mess. Do one part at a time and trial fit components for better visualization. Look at pages 9 and 31 to assist in locating and orienting of parts.
  1. Assemble elevator control arm (15) webbing down and links (14, 12)
  2. Install balls and screws (13, 5) on pitch control arm (22), aileron levers (17). Fix with CA.
  3. Ensure proper location of balls (13) on aileron control levers (17)
  4. Screw (4) is longer than the other ball screws (5) because TWO balls go into the elevator control lever (21)
  5. For advanced pilots the inner location of the ball on the pitch control arm (22) will give a 20 deg pitch window. Novices may use the outer location.
  6. Install pitch control arm (22) and elevator control arm (15) into frames with hardware (2, 10, 8 / 3, 9, 7, 21,7, 11, 10, 8) don't forget the CA on screw (2). Loctite bearings (7, 8) and spacers (9, 10) to screws (1, 2, 3)
  7. Don't forget the little washer (11) on the elevator control lever.
  8. Align elevator control lever (21) perpendicular to the elevator control arm (15) - straight down. Ensure that it is installed with the arm towards the frame.
  9. Assemble control levers (17) and associated hardware (1,9,7,5,13) and install on pitch arm (22). Don't forget the CA on screw (1) and the loctite between the spacers (9), screws (1) and bearings (7).
• Check that the pitch control arm clears the raised pitch gage markings. Trim the raised marks for clearance.
• The linkage must move freely and fall under it's own weight. If the links (19) are too tight on the balls (13) gently squeeze the link on the ball with needlenose pliers.
  

  Step 7 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 3

• Clean and polish mainshaft
• Use a small amount of loctite to fix the mainshaft to the mainshaft bearings.
• Loctite the setscrews (3) in the main shaft lock ring (6)
• Lube the swashplate (9) with teflon oil.
• Lube the mainshaft (7) lightly with teflon oil
• Ensure swashplate (9) and washout assembly (8) slide smoothly on mainshaft (7).
• Linkages must move freely without drag.
  

  Step 8 - Landing Skid Assembly

• Turn the skid braces (3) around for better ground handling
• Glue in the skit end caps to prevent loosing them
  

  Step 9 - Engine Assembly

• Balance fan (3) and clutch (2) assy prior to installation
• Inspect the clutch for any obvious machining flaws.
  
• There is a design flaw with the clutch. If you look close, you will see the two parts of the clutch that move outward to engage the clutch lining (the shoes) catch on the fanhub. This can fatique the metal and cause the two shoes to break off. To fix this you can either file a tiny bit of the metal off of the fan hub so there is a gap between the shoes and the hub or use a very thin washer / brass shimm right around the bolt holes to lift the clutch up away from the hub.
  
  
• Note that the fan (3) is setup to accept the magnets for the GV-1 governor.
• The fan SCREWS on, don't hammer it down (or up if trying to remove).
• Clean and loctite engine crankshaft nut
• Instead of a piston lock, remove engine backplate and jam a soft toothbrush handle into the crankshaft to tighten the engine nut. Or remove the carburator and stick the toothbrush handle in there.
• Clean and loctite clutch screws (1)
• Clean and loctite the carb control lever. Caution, do not overtighten nut as the carb barrel threads may strip.
• Check carburator seating and straightness. Loctite carb retaining nut.
• Lube the one way bearing in the clutch (2) with teflon oil
• Check all engine fasteners for security
• Prelube engine with light oil through the carb and exhaust port. DO NOT use teflon oil for this because it will destroy the glowplug element.
  

  Step 10 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 4

• Install fuel line prior to installing engine/clutch assembly.
• Loctite the engine to engine mount screws (1) and add washers
• Ensure that washers (3) are installed on screws (1). Use loctite.
• Do not forget to install a gasket between the engine and muffler (5). Alternatively use a thin coat of 5 minute epoxy or hi-temp silicone sealer.
• Loctite muffler retaining screws (2). Retighten screws after engine is warmed up on first flight.
• Check that the long bolt holding the muffler (5) together is tight. Rotate exhaust outlet so exhaust gasses clear the skit and frames.
  

  Step 11 - Main Rotor Head Assembly

• Look at pictures on pages 12 and 31 for a visualization of the completed assembly
• If there is some flash on the inside of the Main Rotor Hub (30) use an Xacto knife to remove
• Install all the balls (31) and screws (3). Secure with CA.
• Lubricate the rubber dampeners (27) during installation. Use non petroleum oil for this or the dampeners will deteriorate. Cooking oil is ok.
• Grease the thrust bearings (32) and ensure the larger holed washer goes to the inside of the blade grip. To figure out which is the larger washer, slide on one at a time on the spindle and wiggle back and forth. The two that wiggle more have the larger holes.
• Use CA to fix the two screws (6) in the main blade grips
• CAUTION - The bearing (8) and flybar arm bushing (20) are MISLABELED. The bearing is actually the round thing going into the flybar seesaw hub (21) and the flybar arm bushing goes into the flybar control arm (19)
• There are two flats ground into the flybar (18) for the flybar arm setscrews (4). Make sure the screws (4) are engaging the flats and use loctite.
• Loctite spacers (13, 14) and screws (1, 2) to bearings (9, 14).
• Don't forget the washer (16) in the mixing lever (22) bearings or the arms will hit screw (2)
• The paddles (17) must be aligned parallel to the flybar control arms (19) and each other. Use a kitchen or bathroom sink to aid in alignment.
• Tightening the screws (2) on top of the main rotor hub to flybar seesaw hub may distort and bind the plastic. Two very thin washer may help but ensure the screws (2) don't foul the mixing levers (9)
• The doublelink (26) is very tight on the balls (3) and fragile. Use caution in fitting.
• Disconnect all links to the flybar and balance to flybar by removing material from the heavy paddle.
• Balance the entire head on a high point balancer.
  

  Step 12 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 5

• The linkage (4, 5) should be right about 100mm long
• If you are into radical flying, it may be a good idea to replace bolt (1) with a special hardened shouldered version.
  

  Step 13 - Tail Unit Assembly

• In the new kits the tail rotor drive pully is already installed, but the thin side of the pully is not.
• It is important that the smaller half of the Tail Pulley Set (P/N BK0051 or reference #25 on step 13) be installed so thatthe LONGER flange is NOT installed toward the pulley (pushed into the pulley). If it is, there will be axial play (slop) on the TR shaft because the longer flange (if installed outward) takes up the excess room in the TR housing.
• There are two sets of holes in the tail rotor shaft (23). The open hole is for the pin (14), the filled hole is for the setscrews (5) on the hub (18)
• The Pin (14) is a very tight fit in the tail rotor shaft. Try tapering and sanding the pin for a tight but not loose fit. Use large pliers to press the pin into place.
• Loctite bearing (7) to the tailrotor shaft
• Remove any burrs from tail pitch control slide bushing to enable smooth sliding
• Install the ball (28) and screw (4) before installing tail pitch control slider (21) on shaft. Use CA to fix.
• There is a new tail pitch control fork (20) available with reinforced arms. Get it free from ACE if the old one is in the kit. Old ones may break.
• Loctite the two long setscrews (5) into the tailrotor hub. The setscrews align in the two filled holes on the tail rotor shaft (23)
• Use a little loctite to fix bearings (8) to setscrews (5)
• The M3 locknuts (6) must be installed prior to fitting the blade holder halves (16, 17) together.
• Use CA to fix the blade holder screws (2)
• Don't forget the washer (15) on the pitch control lever (26). If the plastic strips out, use a longer M3x25 screw and add a M3 locknut on top.
  

  Step 14 - Tail Boom Assembly

• The long slots in the tailboom go to the front
• The linkage holes in the rod guides (12) are too small. Use a drill and increase their size until the linkage slides without resistance
• The rod guides (12) are too big for the boom. Use one wrap of electrical tape around the boom or cut the guides and CA to the boom. Don't CA the guides until linkage routing is adjusted in step 16
• The boom (11) is too thin for the boom holders in the main frame. One layer of electrical tape will assure a tight fit and prevent the belt from loosening up.
• Be careful inserting the belt into the boom to prevent cuts on the sharp boom edges which should be deburred.
• The boom must be inserted into the tail unit housings (6) to engage the alignment taps before the two housings are joined
• Insert the tail idle pulley as the two tail unit housings (6) are joined
• Loctite bearing (5) to the tail rotor shaft
• Do not tighten the following screws until belt tension has been adjusted in Step 15. The horizontal fin (8) may be loose on the tailboom even after the screws (3) on top are fully tightend. Again, a layer of electrical tape will ensure the required tight fit. Leaving this part too loose will severely degrade the amount of useable gyro gain. The two screws (3) in the side of the Horizontal fin holding the boom supports (10) will bite into the boom. This may cause radio interference. Shorten the screws by 2mm each or add a few washers.
  
  
  
  

  Step 15 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 6

• Balance the tailblades prior to installation
• Ensure the two screws (3) do not penetrate into the fueltank sidewall. Add a washer or cut off the tip of each screw.
• After belt tension adjustment, tighten the horizontal fin / boom support clamps.
• Make sure the tail rotor rotates in the correct direction. If the main mast is turned clockwise, the forward tail blade holder should move upward into the mainrotor downdraft.
  

  Step 16 - Servo Installation - Part 1

• Install the ball link (10) after sliding the control rod through the frame supports but before joining the forward and aft control linkages.
• Loctite the setscrews (4) in the tail control rod joint (8)
• Make sure the joint (8) does not contact the tail boom. Bent the control rod if necessary
• Rotate the control rod guides on the boom for minimal control rod movement resistance.
• Ensure the brass eyelids and rubber mounts are installed on each servo for vibration insulation
• There was a suggestion to offset the roll (aileron) servo balls to compensate for the linkage not being perpendicular. Upon closer inspection this is unnecessary. The roll bellcranks are not angled at 90 degrees. This eliminates any interaction at the servo wheel. Kudos to Mr. Taya for thinking of this.
• Ensure all linkages are moving freely
  
  

  Step 17 - Servo Installation - Part 2

• If the outer ball location is used on the pitch control arm is used, install the servo as shown in the instructions. For the inner location, turn the servo and servo arm 180 deg for proper alignment of the pitch control rod (so that the wheel is in the front half of the servo, instead of the back half)
• In the outer location the pitch range is restricted to about 10 degrees and when properly set will yield a -1 to +9 degree range. This is done on purpose and is the recommended pitch setup for novices learning to hover.
• The pitch control rod for the inner ball location should be 55mm in length.
• The ball on the pitch servo arm should be 13 to 15mm out for +12 and -9 pitch range.
• Adjust the length of the throttle linkage for even ATV limits on high and low throttle
  

  Step 18 - Main Rotor Assembly

• WARNING - Remove the heatshrink covering under the bladeroots and use CA to glue on the root reinforcements
• The heatshrink may be loose from the factory. Reshrink the covering before first flight
• The heatshrink is fragile and will shred at the slightest provocation or too high rotor rpm. Recover the blades with stick on covering.
• Balance the blades
  

  Step 19 - Receiver / Gyro Installation

• Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber and mount securely to the front tray with rubberbands or velcro
• Clean the gyro mounting surfaces with alcohol prior to applying the double sided tape (2)
• Route the gyro wires and antenna carefully to avoid chafing and cutting. Secure with velcro or tiewraps
• Do not overtighten the tiewraps or the wires may be cut.
• Optionally use a base loaded stub antenna mounted to a landing skit brace
• Another location for the gyro is in front of the pitch arm. This works only with small cubes and care should be taken so that the pitch arm does not touch the gyro.
  

  Step 20 - Body / Canopy Assembly

• Use Goop to fix the body clips (5, 6) to the canopy along with the screws (2)
• Cut a hole in the bottom of the canopy (much like an F-16 look) to enable access to the glow plug for starting and also to run fresh air directly into the cooling fins of the engine.
• Without the F-16 intake a remote glow starter is required or the canopy must be removed for engine starts.
• The smoked lexan will break eventually. Alternatively just leave the plastic canopy in place and paint it black.
• Predrill the screwholes in the canopy and body
• The canopy must be cleaned with solvent prior to applying the decals or they will peel off.
• You can paint the canopy by following these steps:
  1. Sand the entire canopy with 100 grit sandpaper.
  2. Sand the canopy with 400 grit sandpaper
  3. Paint with flexible bumper primer
  4. Sand with 600 wet or dry
  5. Paint with flexible bumper primer
  6. Sand with 600 wet or dry
  7. Paint with your favorite colors
  8. Apply decals and fuel proof clearcoat
  
  

  Raptor Mods and Upgrades

  The page for upgrades and modifications. Bigger engines, blades, mufflers and much more.
  

  Flight Report

• The chopper flies solid. I had the usual pain with the TT36 but some expert help at a flyin made it run adequately.
• Headspeed: For normal hovering and cruising 1600 rpm, for aerobatics 1800 and up.
• I learned a lot flying this thing. I can do some inverted stuff and most regular aerobatics without shaking in my boots. I'm still too scared to try some of the maneuvers with my Futura.
• I installed HS545 servos on cyclic, a Airtronics BB something# on the pitch, a JR517 on throttle and a first generation JR2700G for the tail. Gyro is a CSM360. Add a LED battery indicator, 1400SCR battery and a HiTec 8 channel FM receiver.
• Tried the original woodies, Meeks Glass blades and MinAir XCell 30 blades. The stock woodies win hands down with the MA XCell blades a close second. The Meeks blades just plain sucked for aerobatics but were smooth in hover. For expensive blades try Vic Blades or NHP550s.
• The OS46 conversion did not pan out. I seemed to have a serious problem with the mixture leaning durning descents. I was speculated that the stock 550 blades do not give enough of a load for the bigger engine. You can use an Bergen 46 belt and cut a Ergo boom to fit to enable the use of 600mm blades.
• Received the new idle needle from ACE and installed it. Better but still not up to my standarts. I have a spare SuperTigre carb that will fit with a bit of work. I will report back on the outcome.
• Ok, it's official for me: the TT36 SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!! I installed an OS32SXH in shear desperation. Initial breakin is a dream. Will see what field trials next week have to say.
• The OS32SXH is running sweet. I therefore strongly recommend that a OS engine is used in the Raptor. The TT36 will make a nice aircraft engine.
  

Futaba 8UHx setup for the Raptor